Comments on: Ask Ron

By: Russell Barber

Russell Barber — Fri, 17 May 2013 00:54:36 +0000

Thanks for your help, Ron. Our eight year-old slab home is getting its first engineered wood glue down (five inch 3/8 hickory from Anderson). The builder sprayed the baseboards and laid a four inch path of paint on the concrete. I have tried methanol, methylene chloride, lacquer thinner, high speed wire bristles and good old elbow grease but can't get the paint up. Is it absolutely necessary to remove this paint? If so, any recommendations on what product/method to try next? Thanks for all you do!

By: Rich Roberts

Rich Roberts — Fri, 22 Mar 2013 20:39:23 +0000

Hello Ron, We have Urban Floor hardwood floring (Maple Sunset HSE-5011ST) in our home and love it. Unfortunatley someone slid a heavy coffee table accross the floors last week leaving several large scratches. Is there an easy way to buff these out? Any help would be appreciated. Thank you, Rich.

By: Ron Call

Ron Call — Sat, 19 Jan 2013 14:32:22 +0000

Either method will work, floating floors will require T moldings in doorways between adjacent rooms. So if you OK with little speed bumps between rooms this will be the least expensive method of installation. If you glue and nail it you can have a continuous installation which always looks the best. But you will incur additional costs for labor and glue. Also proper acclimation and maintaining as consistent environmental conditions after installation is always critical especially by the ocean.

By: Gunnar Pritsch

Gunnar Pritsch — Mon, 03 Dec 2012 03:24:27 +0000

Hi Ron
We are thinking of installing wide wood planks (oak) relatively near to the Ocean.
Some wood sellers (Carlisle) say the wide planks need to be glued and nailed; the contractor favors floating.

What is right? How can we make the decision?

THANKS!

By: Ron Call

Ron Call — Thu, 08 Nov 2012 19:01:17 +0000

Jessica, Hi sorry it took so long to respond I think the computer out smarted me on this one. As to your question, most areas of the country have building code requirements regarding fireplaces. In most places you must have a stone or tile hearth in front of your fireplace. Even if your fireplace only puts out a small amount of heat its not a good idea to be without a hearth. If yours is old and out of style try to replace it before you install your new flooring.If not it can be done later you will just have to be careful not to damage your new wood floor.

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By: Jessica Pruett

Jessica Pruett — Thu, 06 Sep 2012 04:32:21 +0000

Hi Ron, We have a gas dual sided fireplace and the area in front of it, or hearth, is tile. I would like to remove the tile and put wood(Urban Floors Birch Flintlock from the Mountain Creek Collection) there, but I am unsure about whether or not it would cause any harm or problems with the wood. It is contained behind glass and does put off much heat. What are your thoughts on this? Would you recommend against removing the tile for safety reasons or to prevent damage to the wood? Should I contact the home builder and ask for the manufacturer info on the fireplace and contact them for any specifics? Thanks for your help! Jessica

By: Jolyn Hann

Jolyn Hann — Thu, 28 Jun 2012 03:32:57 +0000

we will be installing a wood floor in our family room. It butts up to the hallway which is tile. We have purchased the 4 in 1 glue. Our problem is that the tile will be higher than the wood floor once installed.
We thought that we would put 1/4″ plywood down first to bring the tile level to the hallway. Our question is do we glue down the 1/4″ plywood first to the concrete sub floor? Or do we glue down the wood floor to the plywood? or both? Or should we float the floor? What is the correct procedure for this situation?

Also how long do we wait for setting the furniture back into the room after installing the floor ? we also have a pool table that is going into the middle of the room.

Thank you for your help in this matter.
Sincerely,

Jolyn Hann

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